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Audio => AudioFuse => AudioFuse - Technical Issues => Topic started by: MWM on February 23, 2018, 10:20:01 am

Title: Line input 3/4 meters always active
Post by: MWM on February 23, 2018, 10:20:01 am
In the Audiofuse software line input 3/4 always showing signal with nothing even connected to those inputs. Line 3 input is showing even more signal than line 4. If I get it to disappear momentarily by restarting, switching power modes ect. It always comes back to showing a slight signal at -60db. Also in ableton all inputs with a line input connection show a slight signal without any audio sent yet. What is going on? Is my product defective? This is very frustrating. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Title: Re: Line input 3/4 meters always active
Post by: Matt Arturia on March 15, 2018, 02:46:31 pm
Hi,

What you see is in fact a DC Offset.

To quote our product manager about this subjet :

"By design, our dicrete-pro mic preamps don't have DC filter. What you see is the continuous DC offset <1Hz, way under audio range. This DC signal has no influence on the audio."

Some DAWs have an utility tool that can remove the offset signals like Utility in Ableton Live.

Regards,

Matthieu
Title: Re: Line input 3/4 meters always active
Post by: MWM on March 16, 2018, 05:39:47 am
Wow. So after buying a $600 dollar interface I need to apply my own DC offset removal to every track I record now? Thatís very disappointing. DC offset is not something I want to deal with after buying a brand new product.
Title: Re: Line input 3/4 meters always active
Post by: OnAironaut on May 23, 2019, 03:31:25 pm
What you see is in fact a DC Offset.

"By design, our dicrete-pro mic preamps don't have DC filter. What you see is the continuous DC offset <1Hz, way under audio range. This DC signal has no influence on the audio."

Hello!

I read somewhere that the DC offset issue is down to a grounded High Pass Filter pin on the A/D converter chip (AK5388?).

Could solving this issue in the hardware be as simple as desoldering the High Pass Filter pin (25) from the Ground and soldering it to the Power Supply Pin (26)?

Would this be a working option for the more courageous/adventurous of us who don't mind voiding the warranty?

Thank you in advance,
JS