Arturia Forums
Harware Legacy versions => KeyLab => Topic started by: reybarr on March 18, 2014, 06:36:36 pm
-
I see there is a major hardware flaw in the manufacturing process. I am waiting on a reply from Arturia US support on what the next steps are to get my gear replaced or fixed. So far I have not seen any threads of what Arturia is doing about the problem. I see its happening on the minibrute . Anyone want to chime in. :'(... I went ahead and got a novation impulse to use in the meantime. I would like to get my Keylab fixed asap...
-
Hi reybarr,
Could you let me know what's your case number please?
Best regards,
J.
-
hello Jerome
Case #160718
Hi reybarr,
Could you let me know what's your case number please?
Best regards,
J.
-
Check your mails ;).
-
I have not received anything in my email. ???
-
Hi rey,
However I replied to the email address which is displayed on this case.
Best,
J.
-
srb71371@live.com
I didnt get it
-
Still WAITING? on Some kind of reply to get my machine fixed
this is the last time I am going to deal with this company Arturia. >:(
-
Hi,
I'm a bit confused, a certain Steven replied to my last message on ticket 160718..
Best,
Jérôme
-
This is Steven. aka Reybarr.
forget it I fixed it myself. Thanks
-
How did you fix it? I am having the exact same problem with my Keylab and Guitar center.
-
Rio,
it was really simple.
Take the bottom outer edge screws off. This will release the top of the keylab from the top region of the device. be careful when you separate the sections. there are two cables connected. one cable is the aftertouch, the other is the cable that connects the keyboard. I marked the aftertouch cable with a sharpy marker just to stay aware of how it needs to be reconected. it has no markings showing how its polarity is. disconect them and you can work on the keyboard without having cables restraining you.
The key pops of easy. All you need to do is take the spring off. it just takes a little courage to pop it off. you will see how it is. it comes right off by dislodging it.
Once you do that the key itself has a tab that needs a little pressure to release it. i used a little screwdriver to bend the tab to release the key. Once released, push the key forward and it will come right off.
There should be a broken peace inside the key. (hopefully its still there). The broken piece fell out. Its a plastic bumper that is what keeps the key from popping up.
I took the broken piece and cleaned it off as much as I could of broken debris. I got some crazy glue and glued it back on. You will see how it originally sits. Like a puzzle. It will fit. Dont glue it until you understand how it sits.
I put the crazy glue on the broken piece and put it in place. I held it for 30 seconds to make sure it was sitting right. make sure the broken piece is sitting flush before you let the glue dry.
I let it sit for a hour over lunch. When I returned it was as good as new.
Just do the same putting it back together carefully. I was surprised that I actually did it. Its been a hassle, but I feel better about it.
Good Luck and thanks for sharing. I hope this helps
Oh ,, when you put the screws back in on the bottom panel, dont torque them too much because the screws can strip.
Steve
let me know how it goes
-
Oh man, I don't know if I trust myself to try it but good to know it is possible to fix it. If I decide to try, I will let you know how it goes. Thanks a lot for the instructions!
-
Yep, my Middle C key is sticking up like a broken bone right now. I just opened a ticket with Technical Support (ticket# 161539_98ebjqrvhshou1ao ) about it as I've only had mine for a little while. I've had basically no other issues with it in the time I've owned it, aside from wishing I could control the aftertouch delay, but that's just preference. Hardware-wise, it's been a great controller until this key broke.
So, I'll keep my eyes on this post and also hope for the best in the response to my ticket.
-
So far so good on my process. Thanks Jerome!
I'm expecting mine to be away for a while, since it's going to ship all the way across the country and back. I'll report on the general times, but since this appears to have been a manufacture issue, I'm betting the repair itself won't take long. And assuming the new key's been made to proper spec, that should take care of it.
While I'm realistic about it, I'm *really* hoping there's at least a partial refund on the shipment to send it off. That'd be the fairest thing and would make for excellent customer service. I've been lucky to have very few warranty RMA's in my life to deal with and that's been a common service feature.
-
Yo Real soon,
They just offered to send me a new keybed. Did they give you some options?
-
No, the only thing mentioned to me was shipping it off for repair. I'm handy with this stuff and bet I could install a replacement keybed without too much trouble. Thanks for the tip, I'll bring it up!
-
Did your key get fixed
I just returned my first faulty keylab got the replacement opened it in the shop and the middle © was sticking up an inch odd above the rest
I just got a different keyboard instead
-
Ok I sent off my keyboard for repair. It took about 3 weeks to get back and it plays and feels great!
Thanks Arturia you did good and I feel good!
-
I was worried about shipping across the country only to have a freight carrier destroy my 'Lab, so we went with shipping the smaller, lighter keybed to me for replacement. I was thinking there'd be a lot of wiring to mess with and all, but it was nothing but a few screws and a couple of ribbons. Easy as pie and I'm back in business. (this happened weeks ago incidentally; I didn't have to wait long, just procrastinated on posting my results!)
+1 for Jerome and Arturia, this has all been a good support experience.
Assuming the new keybed's base is part of the original manufacturing run, I'm thinking of experimenting some with the original keybed for a longterm repair in case the new one fails. Rubber cement or some such would work for the short term, but if the plastic there is prone to breaking, something else is needed. If/when I work that out, I'll work up an easy DIY writeup and materials list.
-
Thank you so much! This was bugging me for a while and didnt want to have to ship it off. just removed the back cover and glued the part back on just as you described! life saver! :D
-
wow the middle c key on my keylab just popped up aswell... googled and found this thread. what the hell
-
Hi have B & C on my KeyLab-61.
I can still play a note. but I am very disappointed and I already sold my Roland A-90 controller.
George Ware
-
After returning two broken Keylab 49 (keybed issue) to my retailer my third one has a broken key too. This happened just after my return period expired. I emailed Arturia support and they said they would send me a new keybed. They actually responded immediately to my initial emails....well after over a month of waiting and no response after inquiring about it I am fed up and took the keylab apart to fix it myself. I found the broken black plastic bumper that is supposed to keep the key from raising up and super glued it back in place. After opening the keylab I was SHOCKED to see the terrible workmanship. Dirty, muddy fingerprints everywhere, and all over the circuit boards and loose cables. This is the last time I buy ANY Arturia product. I don't mind when a company screws up, just take responsibility for it and man up. Stop trying to hide your manufacturing problems and be honest with your customers. So long and good luck ;)
-
Hello Everyone,
Today I got my replacement 61-keyboard from Arturia.
I removed all the outer screws
and disconnected the ribbon cable and 2-wire aftertouch cable. (note I marked the cable that connected to the small arrow on the connector)
I then removed the 20 screws that held the 61-keyboard to the bottom plate.
I reversed the process to re-install the 61-keyboard to the bottom plate.
Re-connected the ribbon and aftertouch cable.
Re-installed the outer screws to the upper Part of the KeyLab.
powered up KeyLab-61 everything works fine.
Open my ticket on 7/9/2014
Got my keyboard on 7/22/2014
Thank you so much Arturia!!!! ;D
George Ware
-
Ah man... I just had the same thing happen. My 'B' key is sticking up. I just opened a support ticket and i'm hoping it can get fixed. I've only had this board for 8 months and it's seen very light use in my home studio (never gigged). I was apprehensive on buying the keylab because of all the negative comments on their customer support forums but I went ahead and bought it anyways; and I have to say i've been really pleased with it until now. Here's hoping I can get this resolved...
to be continued....
-
Just an update about what happened with my keyboard. So after waiting a few days and not even hearing from Arturia or being issued a response to my email; I decided I should go ahead and fix it myself. I followed reybarr's instructions and glued the broken piece and it fixed the key myself. It was pretty easy. I used a paint pen to mark the two sides for the aftertouch chord - So I didn't mess the polarity up or anything.
Thank you reybarr - without your post; I wouldn't have had the confidence to attempt it myself.
No thank you to Arturia for your shitty customer service.
After a few weeks of use the key has been fine - but now the modulation wheel is clicking and seems off center a bit... probably a matter of time to when that falls apart as well. I've had a few M-audio midi key boards before this one which were a third the price and waaaay better quality and had customer service.
I can't recommend this lemon of a keyboard to anyone. If you like the software - go for it. It's pretty good. But unfortunately, the stories of Arturia customer service are not myth. Don't waste your money on a product it's own company doesn't back up it's own products.
-
I just joined the elevated key crowd - in my case, it's the B above middle C. Oh, joy.
Just filed a support ticket (183592). We'll see what happens.
Myles
-
samethings happened to me yesterday...my middle c key has just popped up and is very flappy :(
ive sent of a ticket yesterday asking for help and got a reply asking what country im from so I told them England but got no reply yet.
im hoping its a quick easy fix.
im shocked how bad the keys are they are very poor quality compared to the rest of the keyboard which is built like a tank.
I originally bought the keyboard to be used for live gigs but once I got it out if the box I realised it wouldn't withstand and type of gigging or rehersals so I use it as my studio master keyboard ,which I must admit up until the problem yesterday I was really happy using it in my studio but for gigs ill buy another brand which could withstand gigging.
---------------------
what do arturua usually do in the broken key situation ?do they send you just 1 replacement key or do they send you a full keybed ?
and is it easy to fix yourself?
given the choice and to save time if the solution is home diy id rather fix it at home so im not losing anytime in the studio.
-
ive found a vid on youtube showing how to replace broken keybed..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPbIxk4DYhg
-
and another one fixing bumpers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kaFYn-a4fXs
-
I have exactly the same problem except c4, up one octave. Looks like two more on eBay.
How did you get in touch with Arturia support to get a replacement keybed? I have a case logged for a week with no reply. It sounds like they have a solution. Is there a better way to connect.
-
keep sending emails or contact the place you bought it from if its still in warrenty.
it took me about a month then I got a reply asking were I lived then I got another email saying did I want to repair it myself or let them repair it.i choose let me repair it then I got a new keybed a week later its very easy too fit they send you pdf showing you how to do it.
-
I had EXACTLY the same problem with one of the keys on my Keylab 49 a few weeks after buying it new.
I also repaired it (no doubt invalidating the warranty but I didn't want to have to send it back to Thomann at my own expense to wait weeks for a replacement) using the same method.
Now, another key is sticking up in exactly the same manner.
What kind of nonsense is this?
Steve
-
I have a Keylab25 and it also got a key problem, as one got detached from the weight due to the inferior quality glue being used. I returned the Keylab to the shop were I bought it and they sent it to the repair central elsewhere. Then it was a matter of waiting, waiting, waiting. Weeks passed and after over six weeks it had finally returned to the shop and I rushed to take it back.
From what I understood It also had been abroad, probably to Grenoble, where they put a very different type of keybed inside which doesn't seem to have all this rubbish glue. It looks more sturdy now and I expect it to last much longer now.
I'm glad they put in a different type, because indeed I was worried about a repeat with detaching weights after this repair.
Knowing this I can only urge anyone to not go DIY in order not having to wait. Without your warranty you'll end up being stuck with a crappy glued-together keybed. Fixing a warranty-void instrument might cost you just as much as a new one.
In my opinion all Keylab instruments with the older glued keybeds should be withdrawn and replaced before someone buys them, because to sell a faulty product is just not okay. Unless someone at Arturia hopes that more people will screw up their warranty so they can keep their hands off the problem. But that philosophy would be a bit too cynical, wouldn't it?
-
I've literally just taken delivery of a brand new Keylab 49 and straight out of the box one of the keys is slightly raised (see pic). The key plays ok but it's really bugging me! I don't want to have to send it back and wait weeks and weeks for a repair..
Anyone got any suggestions? (I've notified Arturia but have no idea whether they'll respond)
-
Have you read what I wrote? Return the damn thing and let them replace the entire new keybed with the new type, which isn't with the crappy glue. You have one faulty key now, but it's a matter of time and more keys will detach from their weights. You can either wait for that, or wait for a proper solution.
Yes, you'll probably have to wait some six weeks, which is pretty awful if you want to make music.
But try to find alternative ways to record in the meantime. Don't let all depend on your midi controller! If you're working on a Mac you can also experiment with sounds by using musical typing.
And please: Don't screw up your warranty by going DIY for a quick fix. Today it's this key, tommorrow it'll be one of the other 49.
This is my advise to you. Someone else may say something different.
-
Sadly i gotta join this party...so i got my replacement keybed for my keylab 25 in the mail....no instructions or link to instructions of any kind....wtf? Is this easy enough to just open up and plug in or something? ???...i didn't get any print of a pdf or anything as mentioned in my emails from Arturia or by other customers above...
-
There's an instruction film for the Minibrute. I expect the Keylab to look similar on the inside.
But be warned: If you open the instrument yourself you will end your warranty!
You may want to consult your local Arturia retailer first.
http://youtu.be/zPbIxk4DYhg
-
I've still not heard anything from Arturia regarding my faulty-out-of-the-box Keylab49 since my original ticket was opened on 20th December. I've since contacted them twice... nothing.
My reseller has also disappeared off the face of the earth. VERY VERY FRUSTRATING!!
-
I've still not heard anything from Arturia regarding my faulty-out-of-the-box Keylab49 since my original ticket was opened on 20th December. I've since contacted them twice... nothing.
My reseller has also disappeared off the face of the earth. VERY VERY FRUSTRATING!!
Likewise i'm still waiting for my ticket to be responded to from mid-December for my broken key. There has been no reply to subsequent emails.
-
That's not real comforting. I put in a ticket on 1/7/15 for the same issue on a brand new Keylab 49. So far, I have heard nothing back on my issue (197725_748pevadrm6i8k82). On mine, it's C5 that is broke but it is not sticking up but rather very loose and will not play a sound. I bought the bundle with Bitwig so I am reluctant to take it back. I like Bitwig but after reading the issues with Arturia's keybeds and slow support I'm considering taking it back.
-
Would somebody please help me out:
Can you guys see your ticket?
I believe I created a ticket by going to http://www.arturia.com/support/askforhelp/issues and selecting "I want support for a non yet registered product", submitted the issue and was told my ticket is: http://ns3329673.ovh.net/fogbugz/?200028_po3sdmb00e732jg8
and that page is throwing a db error.
Did I make the ticket right? Do I need to register my product in order to get support? If I register the product am I able to unregister it in the event I want to transfer it to another owner?
A key of mine popped up and I'd like to have it fixed. If I repair it myself will Arturia know I opened the keyboard and void the warranty? because I would also like a new keybed if that's how they're remedying the situation.
-
I have the same problem
just over 1 year old
keys broke by them self ??? ??? :'( :'(
-
Update I got response form Arturia support they will send me a new keybed for my keylab 49. :D :D :) :)
they also offered for me to send it to them for repair, I choose the keybed option.
Good stuff.
Not a biggie even High class BMW cars has faults from parts out source making.
But when a company step up and repair or send the parts free, thats good customer service
+1 for Arturia
-
Talking about broken keys..
I just got a used Keylab 49. Everything seemed to be working perfectly until I realized that the C1 was unresponsive, only on the aftertouch! The C2 and upper C also don't always respond accordingly.
Anyone has experienced that problem? How did you fix it?
It looks to me more like a connection problem such as the IDC ribbon connector.
In this case, any idea where to get a replacement?
-
Just to add a couple of comments to Reybarr's fix: I too just repaired a key that was raised above the others (on my "The Laboratory", not the KeyLab). Here's how I did it:
1. Took off the outer screws like Reybarr
2. Turned the keyboard over (so the keys and controls were facing up - like it would be when you play it).
3. Grabbed the wooden ends and pulled them towards me. Once the plate under the front of the keys cleared the front of the keys, I rotated everything backwards so that the controls were behind the keyboard. I left the ribbon cables attached.
4. I removed the spring at the back of the key, then pushed down the key and pulled it towards me. This released the key
5. Found the little rubber bumper that came off and super-glued it back in. NOTE: This part gets glued in about half way down the length of the key (about the depth of a black key on the keyboard (I kept trying to see how it would fit in back near the spring assembly).
6. Put everything back together and all is well.
Fingers crossed!!!
-
I've got a KeyLab 61 that I bought used from a forum member. It has worked fine for about a year now. I have the top G on the keyboard popping up as well. I don't expect them to replace it or cover it under warranty, but I would like to order either a new key, new keybed, or something. I don't mind opening it up as I once was a keyboard tech in another life. I filed a support ticket explaining my situation about a week ago but have not heard anything back.
On another note, I also have a MiniLab and am missing one of the little rubber "feet" on the bottom. Whenever I set it flat on a table it wobbles on me. Anyone have any suggestions on what I should try there. I filed another support ticket on this as well hoping they will respond and let me order the part from somewhere.
I'm trying to set up MainStage on a MacBook Pro and am using the KeyLab 61 on top of a M-Audio KeyStation 88es. Pretty righteous combination. If I can't get the KeyLab 61 fixed I can always use my MOXF6 as my top board plus that would give me a backup as well if the MBP goes south. Sorry, just thinking out loud!
-
Wow my Keylab 61 has about 6 raised/broken keys. Sure they all work, but this is some total crap. Also my pitch bend wheel is broken. I felt it when it broke. It literally felt like a rubber band was being used for it to bend, and I felt it snap. Im not hard on any of my equipment. These things were just built crappy. So now I have to call Arturia and hopefully work something out that will of course cost me more money to get fixed. Im seriously contemplating throwing my CrapLab off a roof and videotaping it, then posting the video to Arturia's IG for a a month straight. There's absolutely no reason why a keyboard of this so called caliber should be built so horribly!!!
-
I can't believe people are still having problems with these keyboards. I got rid of my broken-on-arrival Keylab in December 2014. There's no doubt Arturia's software is great but their hardware stinks!
-
I'm still using an antiquated The Laboratory 49 controller, with V-Collection 4, and I haven't had one single issue.
It has sat on my recording desk for 4 years now, and the only move was from the apartment to the house we bought 17 months ago.
I'm wondering if some of the issues reported are a result of handling. I know the keys are lightweight, and I cringe on occasion when I apply after-touch, but I can't imagine to see how this is a common issue. I do agree that the keys/action could use an upgrade, like the fatar keys that go into many synths as an O.E.M. standard, like most of the Rolands, Korgs, Alesis, & such.
I'm not trying to rain on anyone's parade, because I would be ticked too, I'm just finding this occurrence to be rather surprising. That's all.
-
I'm still using an antiquated The Laboratory 49 controller, with V-Collection 4, and I haven't had one single issue.
It has sat on my recording desk for 4 years now, and the only move was from the apartment to the house we bought 17 months ago.
I'm wondering if some of the issues reported are a result of handling. I know the keys are lightweight, and I cringe on occasion when I apply after-touch, but I can't imagine to see how this is a common issue. I do agree that the keys/action could use an upgrade, like the fatar keys that go into many synths as an O.E.M. standard, like most of the Rolands, Korgs, Alesis, & such.
I'm not trying to rain on anyone's parade, because I would be ticked too, I'm just finding this occurrence to be rather surprising. That's all.
Because the original ( non-updated ) keybed in these is an absolute pile of shit. They were manufactured poorly and they break. Look on eBay and all you will see is used keylabs with broken keys. This has nothing to do with handling, it's a manufacturing defect/cheap manufacturing that has caused this and Arturia is beating around the bush to fix this and a few other known issues such as weights falling off, encoders that act funny, sliders that feel like they have sand in the track, etc.
I have 2 keylab 49's right now that I updated the keybeds on because they were broken, I had a keylab 25 I updated the keybed on because it was broken and I have another keylab 49 I am currently selling that has the old keybed in it that is fine plus two other keylab 49's in various pieces.
For you guys with keys popped, the key itself isn't broken, it's the stop that is broken.
It's a damn shame because these could have been amazing controllers!
-
Hello. tell me where I can purchase "Arturia 25-Key Midi Controller Replacement Parts Repair Set"? can I order it from Arturia?
I would be grateful for any iniormation.
-
Rio,
it was really simple.
Take the bottom outer edge screws off. This will release the top of the keylab from the top region of the device. be careful when you separate the sections. there are two cables connected. one cable is the aftertouch, the other is the cable that connects the keyboard. I marked the aftertouch cable with a sharpy marker just to stay aware of how it needs to be reconected. it has no markings showing how its polarity is. disconect them and you can work on the keyboard without having cables restraining you.
The key pops of easy. All you need to do is take the spring off. it just takes a little courage to pop it off. you will see how it is. it comes right off by dislodging it.
Once you do that the key itself has a tab that needs a little pressure to release it. i used a little screwdriver to bend the tab to release the key. Once released, push the key forward and it will come right off.
There should be a broken peace inside the key. (hopefully its still there). The broken piece fell out. Its a plastic bumper that is what keeps the key from popping up.
I took the broken piece and cleaned it off as much as I could of broken debris. I got some crazy glue and glued it back on. You will see how it originally sits. Like a puzzle. It will fit. Dont glue it until you understand how it sits.
I put the crazy glue on the broken piece and put it in place. I held it for 30 seconds to make sure it was sitting right. make sure the broken piece is sitting flush before you let the glue dry.
I let it sit for a hour over lunch. When I returned it was as good as new.
Just do the same putting it back together carefully. I was surprised that I actually did it. Its been a hassle, but I feel better about it.
Good Luck and thanks for sharing. I hope this helps
Oh ,, when you put the screws back in on the bottom panel, dont torque them too much because the screws can strip.
Steve
let me know how it goes
A few years later, and you fixed a problem I thought I had to live with, after Arturia "fixed" the messed-up key, and then it did the same thing in a couple of weeks.
Thanks!
Myles